L’équipe de Highsnobiety a eu l’opportunité d’avoir une petite discussion avec Denis Calvero, le fondateur de Crooks & Castles. La marque a débuté depuis un peu plus de 2 ans, et devient de plus en plus influente, avec des designs marquants.
En quelques mots, Crooks & Castles est une marque qui est en train d’exploser, crée un mouvement autour d’elle, et devient une figure emblématique du Streetwear.
Vous retrouverez dans cette interview, d’où vient la marque, les intentions de Denis dans le futur, et enfin, des preview de la collection Summer 2007.
Dans le lookbook, vous retrouverez des visages familiers, tels que: Diz Girban, Kabo Kavapalu, Dagan Ryan (Bodagan), Kimball Lynch, Chace Infinite, Dom Deluca (Brooklyn Projects), Nick Terchay (Diamond Supply Co.), Misa Campo, Joey Suriel, Tone, Josh, Big Boi (Outkast)…
Thanks to Highsnobiety
Voir la suite pour l’interview, ainsi que les previews du lookbook…
Q1: Hi Dennis, hope all is good on your end. What are you up to these days?
Trying to catch up on seasons. Continuously working and starting new projects that I don’t have time for… but I love to do it!
Q2: Even though most people have heard of you already, please introduce yourself to our readers. What is your background in the business? How did Crooks & Castles start? What is your role?
Well fist off My name is Dennis Calvero, Creative Director and Co-Founder of Crooks & Castles. Started back in the 2002 with my partners Robert Panlilio and Ericka Ramirez. I’ve been in the apparel business for about 12 yrs. I got my start as a Graphic Designer and attended my first Magic in late ‘95. Crooks started in ‘02 to service the demand in American streetwear brands for the Japanese Market.
Q3: One can clearly say that your brand has been extremely successful right from the start. The theme, the designs that perfectly translate the brands values into clothing and strong collections season after season have built the brand since its creation - how would you describe Crooks & Castles as a brand? Is there a common philosophy behind the brand? Who do you want to reach out to?
Most people saw the re-birth of Crooks these past couple years, but when we started in 2002 Streetwear wasn’t as big as its current stage. Skills wise, I don’t think I knew enough back then, to really mold it into what it is now. So it was a learning process, even though we learned a lot having an independent brand in “Landscape” It wasn’t this instant success that people think.
The philosophy is simple, behind every castle there’s a crook. We are the Crooks behind the Castle we are trying to achieve. Castle is a symbol of royalty, kingship, rulers. Growing up those figures that embodied the “Castle” were Hustlers, kingpins etc. All infamous for being Crooked. We’ve been in those situations, seen it first hand and experienced the worst thats been dealt. So when you see the bandanas the chains the crowbars, its the symbols of our tools of trade.
Q4: Do you still do most of the design yourself?
Yes I design about 95% of the line, I do get help from friends who’s works I admire and ask them for freelance. But a majority of the design work is handled by myself.
Q5: You use some Versace references in your signature designs, like the Medusa. Has Versace ever contacted you about that? Do you think it could become an issue as the brand grows?
The medusa has been somewhat a signature piece to us, even though it isn’t ours….Thats Crooks baby! j/k. I’ve always liked the aesthetic of their icon and came up with the idea of placing the bandana over the face. It was a way to express “Crooks & Castles” in graphic form. We’re starting to stray from it, and even re-drew a new Medusa. But haven’t received that C&D letter yet! (Knock on Wood)
Q6: Your Summer 2007 collection is being released these days. Please describe the new collection for us - what can the customer find in the new collection, what are the standout pieces?
Summer being a predominantly T-Shirt season, I focused more of the design work to graphics. We are introducing basketball jerseys with a chain pattern print. Some shorts and a couple short sleeve wovens. You’ll still find some of the same shit that we’ve been offereing in the past, but to me its a way to instill branding. In a sense a way of owning something that we won’t have to trademark.
Q7: Recently Crooks & Castles also participated in the Sapporo Fashion Show. How did the collaboration come up?
Coltane and Sky from Epiphany Media contacted me and asked if I can participate and create a signature item with Sapporo. Using their graphics in ways I’ve used hi-end brand logos to create a collage was what they expressed they wanted. So I came up with the Sapporo x Crooks tee. Its been very well received although it isn’t for sale, we can kill it with that tee and the hat…its still in talks about releasing them to the public.
Q8: In a recent Interview you mentioned quite a few very interesting collaboration projects that are in the works. What do you have coming up and who will we see you working with over the next few months?
This question is always a way to keep our phones ringing and inbox’s max’d out!! LOL. But yah, we’re doin a letterman jacket with Mitchell & Ness, a pair of Sunglasses with Mosley Tribes, and a ceramic watch with Know1edge, all for holiday… pefect for the gift giving season!
Q9: Let’s talk a bit about the streetwear market in general. 2006 was a very strong year for a lot of brands. Now this year a lot of pessimistic voices arise and predict the market to break in or at least many smaller brands to fall out again. What is your personal point of view on the situation of the market you are in right now?
I feel that the new more younger spirited brands are chipping away at the bigger brands, and those that have created a proper infrastructure for themselves will be able to launch themselves into the next level and in due time become a “Bigger” brand.
Q10: What are your future plans for Crooks & Castles? How do you want to develop the line? Could you also see yourself creating a retail project, like quite a few other LA brands have recently done?
Our main focus is to get on a timely calendar to allow us enough time to really pay attention to detail. The more time we have to design obviously the better the collection becomes. Retail is in the works and we’ll hopefully be opening up in LA this winter. Possibly fairfax.
Q11: Last but not least, let’s talk a bit about yourself. How would you describe your personal style? What brands are you into at the moment?
I’ve always been more plain about my personal style, there are a couple pcs I have that are bit flashy but I go for the more cleaner approach.
I just went on a trip to Japan and purchased a few visvim items. I love outerwear and really like what they have done in terms of Hi-Tech Lo- Tech. I’m excited to see brands like In4mation, R&D, Hellz Bellz, & Fiberops, expand into more offerings and see the growth in them. We’ve all come along way and I’m glad to see us still in the game.
Q12: What are your hobbies or what do you do in your free time?
I just got married after Magic in Feb.07 and spend most of my time with wifey! She keeps me grounded and inspires me to keep pushing.
I enjoy seeing my nephew Nature and niece Sade grow, so any chance I get to spend with them I take. I occasionally get a drink or two at any local LA spot, Nacional or Hollys, with my boys. Patron Platinum on the Rocks with Lime!
Q13: Thats it already. Thanks a lot for the Interview and make sure to keep us posted!
Thank you and see you in B&B!
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